Is scab hair real? Yes. I have it now and have been dealing with it ever since I decided to go natural and my hair started to grow out. In case you have never heard of scab hair, it is the hair the grows out after relaxer treatments are stopped. The hair is rough, resistant to any styling, dry, and just plain unpleasant to deal with. You can have scab hair all over or only in parts of your scalp.
As I stated elsewhere on this site, I did not get my first relaxer until I was 30, so I was well aware of what my hair should look and feel like in its natural state. And this ain’t it. Now I do think that some of the rough hair may be compounded by it being gray, because as we know gray hair is more wiry and coarser than hair that still has its color. However, this would not account for the extreme difference in the way my hair feels now and how it did in the past.
Most of the articles I have read on scab hair relate it to a lack of moisture. In fact, it is probably due to a lack of lubrication. What is the difference? One relates to water and the other to oil or sebum produced in the follicle by the sebaceous glands. Consider–all relaxer instructions state to keep the product a certain distance from the scalp–this is obviously to prevent burns but also this keeps the relaxer out of the follicles and sebaceous glands to prevent damaging them.
Follicle and sebaceous gland damage
After giving it some thought, follicle and sebaceous gland damage are probably the main culprits in scab hair. (The sebaceous glands are connected to the follicle and actually produce the lubricating sebum. Wikipedia has a good image here to show you the relation of the sebaceous glands. Clicking the link will open a new window and take you to Wikipedia. Don’t forget to come back! ) The reason I say this is the follicles and sebaceous glands can be affected by the relaxer and can’t do their jobs of producing sebum and moving it along the hair shaft to keep the scalp and hair strand lubricated. Until the follicles and sebaceous glands start to function normally again, the hair in this area will be affected.
Why and how do relaxers cause follicle and sebaceous gland damage?
Relaxers are caustic substances. They will actually dissolve not only hair but flesh if left in contact too long with it.
When we relax our hair, no matter how hard we try, some of the relaxer will get on the scalp. This can happen whether we self relax or go to a professional. The shorter the hair the harder it is to keep the relaxer off the scalp. Also improper neutralizing of the relaxer and rinsing can cause it to be left in contact with the scalp too long.
What happens when our follicles and sebaceous glands stop lubricating
Think of all the substances we have to lubricate our bodies–tears, oils, mucus, etc produced by various glands and mucous membranes. When something goes wrong with our bodies and these lubricating substances stop being produced, we suffer. Think of dry skin, dry eyes, and yes, dry hair.
Imagine you were trying to grow a crop for food–would it grow better in the desert or on fertile farm land? You could add various things to the desert soil to make it better, but it would not be the same. Now think of our hair. If the natural lubrication is interrupted, you can treat it with various external substances, but nothing works better than our naturally produced ones–they are custom made just for you by your own body. The natural sebum that is produced by our bodies also serves as waterproofing, and so the moisture balance of our hair is also affected, in my opinion causing the hair to release moisture too quickly.
This is why so many transitioners feel their hair is extremely dry, whether they big chop or not. Because it is! The normal sebum production has been interrupted. This was really a revelation for me, that I had scab hair before I decided to transition while I was still relaxing my hair! This also explains why when the new growth starts to grow in we feel inclined to touch-up sooner than we should–we think the new growth is our actual texture and is unmanageable. This scab hair makes an even bigger contrast between our natural and relaxed hair, and we feel we can’t deal with it. So we relax again, starting the vicious cycle over again and maybe making matters worse by relaxing too often. Why does our relaxed hair not feel this way? To some extent it does, because many times we have to keep relaxed hair moisturized (with some external substance) to keep it feeling soft, and remember too your hair when relaxed has been chemically altered, so the smoothness you feel along the hair is a product of the relaxer, not naturally produced by the hair itself.
Why do I not have scab hair all over my head?
Why is my entire head not affected by scab hair? I know in my case I had the most new growth in my crown, exactly where I have the most scab hair. My theory is that more relaxer was used in this area and left on longer, leading to more scab hair. Other problem areas are the front edges and temple areas. The hair in these areas is known to be more delicate and damaged easily by relaxer left on too long. In these areas too the relaxer most likely was in direct contact with the scalp since these areas are in front and we really wanted to get them straight.
How to treat scab hair
Is the situation hopeless? No. The human body, like the earth itself, has an amazing ability to heal and repair itself. We just need to help heal the follicles and sebaceous glands and milk them back to life so the lubricating substances can be produced again. How? Time will probably take care of it in most cases. The fact that the follicles are still producing hair prove that they are not beyond recovery. (If you do have a smooth spot on your scalp anywhere that is not producing hair you need to see a doctor to determine the reason why.) But also by topically applying substances know to have healing properties and massaging these down into the follicle, hopefully also helping the sebaceous glands to speed their natural recovery.
I am sure there must be some product out there that claims to heal follicles and sebaceous glands, but I have not tried any specifically for this as of yet. For now I decided to try a mixture of vitamin E (said to help wound healing depending on who you ask), castor oil, and lavender oil in a base of extra virgin olive oil (olive oil is said to resemble our natural sebum, along with some of the other popular oils like jojoba). I plan on using this twice a week (I have read recommendation to restrict vitamin E use to no more than this). I am massaging this into my scalp in an effort to get it down into the follicles. Hopefully this will speed up the healing process of my follicles and my sebaceous glands will start to produce sebum and softer hair.
Important Information for those who Relax
If I had had this information when I was relaxing I would have done some things differently in order to protect my scalp and hair and prevent scab hair:
- I would have devised a plan to keep the relaxer off my scalp–better than just basting my scalp, which I was already doing.
- I would have immediately after a touch-up started the healing process by massaging and basting my scalp with my healing substances to reverse the damage done by the relaxer.
- I already was stretching my relaxer sometimes as long as 18 weeks.
- I already was neutralizing the relaxer several times to stop its action.
- I already was using my powerful shower head to make sure I got all the relaxer off my scalp.
If you are still relaxing your hair try these suggestions, and you may be able to ward off the dreaded scab hair.
To read other articles on this site, please see Hair Care Articles Index.